Bandelier National Monument, a place where the whispers of the past echo through the canyons and the spirit of the "old ones" lingers in the very stones, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Ancestral Pueblo people and the ongoing efforts to preserve their heritage. Ninety years after its designation as a national monument, Bandelier stands not just as a collection of ancient ruins, but as a vibrant, living landscape where the past and present intertwine. This is a place where the observant visitor can almost feel the presence of those who came before, where the sun-baked earth holds secrets waiting to be discovered, and where the echoes of ancient traditions resonate in the wind. The spirit of the old ones is truly palpable at Bandelier National Monument.
Cecilia Shields, an interpretive park ranger at Bandelier National Monument, embodies this connection between past and present. With roots in the Picuris, Ohkay Owingeh, and Mescalero Apache tribes, she brings a unique perspective to her role, seeing beyond the weathered stone and crumbling walls to the lives and stories they represent. For seven years, she has walked the trails, interpreting the landscape not as a static collection of ruins, but as a dynamic environment still imbued with the essence of its former inhabitants.
Walking the Main Loop Trail with Shields is an experience that transcends the typical tourist visit. She guides visitors through the heart of Tyuonyi Pueblo, pointing out the subtle details that often go unnoticed. The remnants of walls, once part of a bustling community, rise from the canyon floor, hinting at the complex social structure and daily life that thrived here centuries ago. These are not just piles of rocks; they are the foundations of homes, the boundaries of communal spaces, and the silent witnesses to generations of human experience.
Her connection to the land extends beyond the physical structures. She directs attention to a petroglyph etched high into the south wall of Frijoles Canyon, a sun symbol with radiating rays. This ancient carving, a testament to the artistic and spiritual expression of the Ancestral Pueblo people, is easily overlooked by those rushing through the site. The canyon itself is a dramatic landscape, sharply divided by its geological features. The north wall, with its gentler slope and lush vegetation, contrasts sharply with the south side, a sheer cliff face riddled with cavates – small, human-carved caves that served as both living quarters and storage spaces. Over a thousand of these cavates are recorded, a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the people who carved them from the volcanic tuff.
Shields emphasizes that Bandelier is more than just ruins. "So many people come to Bandelier," she explains, "and they’re caught up in hurrying through to get to the next destination that they don’t see the subtleties and evidence of human habitation here beyond the walls, which they refer to as ruins. They’re not ruins. Bandelier is still alive." This sentiment captures the essence of what makes Bandelier so special: it is a place where the past is not confined to history books, but rather permeates the present, influencing the landscape and the experience of those who visit. The old ones‘ spirit lives on here.
She speaks of the natural cycles of life that continue to unfold within the canyon, mirroring the rhythms of the past. "In the spring," she says, "the flowers still bloom and birds still come to sing with the spirits of the ancestral people. And when the ancient ones are thirsty, the rain clouds still bring them water and the creek still flows." This connection to the natural world, so central to the Ancestral Pueblo culture, remains palpable at Bandelier, a reminder of the deep respect and interdependence between humans and the environment.
This reverence for the past and the ability to connect long-vanished cultures to the present day are qualities that drew Adolph Bandelier, the monument’s namesake, to the area in the late 19th century. Bandelier, a self-taught archaeologist from Illinois, arrived in the New Mexico Territory in 1880. He immersed himself in the cultures of the local Indigenous communities, living among the Cochiti people, who first introduced him to the Pajarito Plateau and Frijoles Canyon. He was captivated by the grandeur and historical significance of the area, declaring it "the grandest thing I ever saw." His work laid the foundation for the eventual preservation and recognition of this remarkable site.
The year of this article marked the 100th anniversary of the 1906 Antiquities Act, a landmark piece of legislation that has played a crucial role in protecting America’s cultural heritage. This act empowers the President of the United States to designate public lands as national monuments, safeguarding historic and prehistoric sites and artifacts from destruction and looting. The Antiquities Act was instrumental in preserving sites like Bandelier, ensuring that future generations would have the opportunity to learn from and appreciate the legacy of the past.
The 90th anniversary of President Woodrow Wilson’s declaration of Bandelier as a national monument was also celebrated. This designation officially recognized the national significance of the site and paved the way for its development as a protected area, accessible to the public. In recognition of these milestones, the National Park Service hosted a series of events throughout the year, aimed at educating the public about the history, archaeology, and cultural significance of Bandelier National Monument.
The Ancestral Pueblo people, sometimes referred to as Anasazi (meaning "old ones" in Navajo), arrived in the area around 1,100 years ago. They found a landscape sculpted by volcanic activity, with layers of volcanic tuff providing a unique building material. Over time, they transformed the landscape to suit their needs, enlarging natural holes in the cliff faces to create living and storage spaces. These cavates, carved into the soft rock, offer a glimpse into the daily lives of the people who inhabited this canyon.
At its peak, around A.D. 1550, the population of Frijoles Canyon reached approximately 700 people, while the overall Pajarito Plateau supported nearly 20,000 inhabitants. This thriving community developed a complex social structure, sophisticated agricultural practices, and a rich artistic tradition. However, around the mid-16th century, the Ancestral Pueblo people of the Pajarito Plateau began to relocate to other areas along the Rio Grande. They settled in what are now the San Ildefonso, Santa Clara, San Felipe, Santo Domingo, and Cochiti pueblos, continuing their traditions and maintaining their cultural identity.
The reasons for this relocation are believed to be complex and multifaceted. Drought, a recurring challenge in the arid Southwest, likely played a significant role, making it increasingly difficult to sustain a large population through agriculture. Population growth may have also strained the resources of the land, leading to competition and conflict. Whatever the precise reasons, the abandonment of Bandelier marked a significant chapter in the history of the Ancestral Pueblo people.
Although the site was vacated, it was never truly forgotten. The legacy of the Ancestral Pueblo people remained etched into the landscape, a silent testament to their presence. The empty cavates, the crumbling walls, and the intricate petroglyphs continued to tell their story, waiting to be rediscovered and interpreted by future generations. The old ones may have left, but their spirit remained, woven into the very fabric of Bandelier National Monument.
Ironically, the Great Depression played an unexpected role in making Bandelier National Monument more accessible and user-friendly. Prior to the 1930s, access to the canyon was challenging, requiring visitors to travel on horseback over a steep, winding trail. In 1907, a rustic lodge, known as the Ranch of the Ten Elders, was built in the canyon and later operated by Evelyn and George Frey. They and their guests had to transport all their supplies into the canyon via the half-mile Frey Trail, a demanding journey that limited access to the site.
However, during the Great Depression, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) undertook a massive project to improve infrastructure at Bandelier. From 1933 to 1941, the CCC built 32 structures at the monument, including a fire lookout tower, the main road into the park, and a new Pueblo Revival-style lodge, which now serves as the visitor center and administrative buildings. This work not only provided much-needed employment during a time of economic hardship but also transformed Bandelier into a more accessible and welcoming destination for visitors.
The legacy of the CCC is still visible throughout Bandelier National Monument, a testament to the enduring impact of this New Deal program. The carefully constructed roads, the sturdy stone buildings, and the thoughtfully designed trails all bear witness to the skill and dedication of the CCC workers. Their efforts ensured that future generations would be able to explore and appreciate the beauty and historical significance of Bandelier.
Bandelier National Monument stands as a powerful reminder of the rich cultural heritage of the Southwest and the importance of preserving these irreplaceable sites for future generations. It is a place where visitors can connect with the past, learn about the traditions of the Ancestral Pueblo people, and appreciate the beauty of the natural world. Whether hiking the Main Loop Trail, exploring the cavates, or simply contemplating the ancient petroglyphs, a visit to Bandelier is an unforgettable experience, a journey into the heart of the American Southwest. The spirit of the old ones continues to resonate here, inviting visitors to listen closely and discover the secrets of this remarkable place.