The Indian Trade Blanket is more than just a textile; it’s a vibrant thread woven into the tapestry of Native American life, deeply connected to the history of trade and cultural exchange in the Southwest and beyond. Whether meticulously handwoven by skilled Native American artisans or efficiently produced in American woolen mills using Jacquard looms, the blanket holds a significant place in Native American culture, representing far more than simple warmth and utility.
From the moment of birth to the final passage, blankets are interwoven with the rituals and traditions that mark life’s milestones. They are bestowed as gifts to celebrate births, marriages, and christenings, symbolizing blessings and well wishes. Beyond celebrations, blankets serve as a form of currency, used to settle debts, express gratitude, and denote social status. Their versatility extends beyond symbolic gestures; they provide temporary shelter, serve as curtains or awnings, offer warmth against the elements, and act as personal adornment. Babies are cradled within their soft folds, dancers move gracefully enveloped in their vibrant colors, and in death, individuals are often laid to rest wrapped in their cherished blankets. The Indian Trade Blanket transcends mere object; it becomes a companion throughout life’s journey.
Historically, blankets have always been an indispensable part of Native American existence. Before European contact, indigenous communities crafted blankets from woven plant fibers, animal hides, and furs. As weaving techniques developed, blankets were meticulously woven by hand from wool or cotton. The concept of trading blankets was not new with the arrival of white settlers. Long before, Native American tribes engaged in trade amongst themselves, exchanging blankets for other valuable goods. Therefore, the acceptance of commercially made blankets from Europeans in exchange for sought-after beaver pelts was a natural progression in an already established practice.
However, this transition also became a matter of necessity. As European settlers moved westward, the buffalo population, a vital resource for many tribes, dwindled drastically due to overhunting. This displacement and the loss of buffalo hides, traditionally used for clothing, shelter, and blankets, forced many Plains Indians to rely on traders for their supply of blankets, impacting their way of life.
The earliest trade blankets were characterized by their simplicity. They typically featured solid colors and a limited number of contrasting stripes. The iconic, thick, striped Hudson Bay Company blanket, manufactured in England, was a prominent trade item distributed by European trappers to the Blackfeet and other Northern Plains Indians. As the demand for quality wool blankets as a valuable trading commodity grew among trappers and explorers, American companies recognized an opportunity. Mills such as Racine Woolen Mills in Wisconsin, Buell in Missouri, Capps in Illinois, and the Oregon City Mill in Oregon began producing their own versions of woolen trade blankets.
In 1896, a significant milestone occurred with the establishment of Pendleton Woolen Mills in Pendleton, Oregon. Uniquely, this mill was founded specifically with the intention of producing trade blankets. While each woolen mill possessed its own distinct characteristics, the designs often shared similarities, reflecting the preferences of their Native American clientele.
The Oregon City blankets were known for their intricate detailing, showcasing elaborate patterns and designs. In contrast, the Capps blankets tended to be simpler in design, catering to the tastes of the Plains Indians, who favored bolder, more geometric patterns. The initial Pendleton blankets incorporated basic geometric shapes such as stripes, blocks, rectangles, and crosses. However, the introduction of the Jacquard loom in 1901 revolutionized blanket design. This technological advancement allowed for the creation of more complex and intricate zigzag patterns, expanding the design possibilities for the mills.
By the late 1800s, the landscape of Native American life had undergone significant changes. Many tribes had been confined to reservations, and trading posts became central hubs for acquiring essential goods such as food, jewelry, clothing, and, of course, blankets. These trading posts provided English and American woolen mills with a ready-made market for their blankets. The quality and designs of these blankets were highly appreciated by Native Americans, who became the mills’ most loyal customers. The Indian Trade Blanket provided a sense of warmth and identity to a population that was dealing with hardships.
Recognizing the importance of understanding their customers’ preferences, many mills took the initiative to send designers to live among the various tribes and pueblos across the United States and Canada. This immersive experience allowed the designers to learn firsthand what designs, colors, and patterns would appeal to the distinct tastes and cultural sensibilities of each community.
From its inception, Pendleton Woolen Mills focused on producing high-quality blankets, which ultimately led them to become the most sought-after Indian trade blanket. By the end of World War II, most of the American woolen mills had ceased operations, leaving Pendleton as the sole survivor in the trade blanket industry.
Throughout America, the name "Pendleton" has become synonymous with quality and distinctive design, even among non-Native Americans. Many individuals associate the brand with fond memories, such as aunts who exclusively wore Pendleton jackets, grandparents who used Pendleton lap robes in their drafty automobiles, or "Indian-style" Pendleton blankets that were draped over couches or folded at the foot of beds as decorative accents.
Due to their unique designs, these blankets were often referred to as "Indian blankets," even though they were not designed by Native American craftsmen nor were they made by Indian-owned businesses. The name "Pendleton" itself evolved into a universal and generic term used to describe any of these distinctively patterned blankets, regardless of the manufacturer.
Today, there is a renewed appreciation for older trade blankets, particularly those produced before World War II. These vintage blankets are highly sought after by collectors because they were lightweight, warm, inexpensive, and easily replaceable. However, their very nature as functional items meant that they were frequently used, resulting in a scarcity of well-preserved examples. The enduring legacy of the Indian Trade Blanket is a testament to its cultural significance.
This resurgence of interest in trade blankets has also fueled a new market. Old and new blankets are being repurposed to create a variety of items, including coats, couches, and teddy bears. Additionally, Pendleton continues to innovate with exciting new designs. Notably, Santa Fe artist Ramona Sakiestewa recently made history as the first Native American to design a series of blankets for Pendleton.
The story of the American trade blanket is filled with irony. Native Americans served as both the inspiration for the designs and the primary consumers of these blankets. However, it’s important to remember that long before the arrival of Europeans and the establishment of American trading posts, blankets were an integral part of Native American life and survival.
As Bob Kapoun eloquently states, "Blankets have become a statement of American Indianness." This sentiment is powerfully echoed in the words of Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce, delivered in his surrender speech in 1877:
"It is cold and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them, have run away to the hills and have no blankets, no food. No one knows where they are—perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead. Hear me, my chiefs. I am tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."
Chief Joseph’s poignant words underscore the profound importance of blankets, not just as a source of warmth, but as a symbol of comfort, security, and survival in the face of adversity. The Indian Trade Blanket is a symbol of Native American history.
(Source information and acknowledgements omitted as per instructions.)