The Cherokee Tear Dress stands as a unique and significant garment within the cultural heritage of the Cherokee Nation. Unlike many tribal dresses that evolved organically over time, the Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma holds the distinction, to the best of knowledge, of being the only tribe to formally legislate a specific style of clothing as its official tribal dress. This article delves into the construction, design, history, and significance of the Cherokee Tear Dress, offering a comprehensive look at this iconic piece of Cherokee identity. It is important to note that the Cherokees of North Carolina, while sharing a common heritage, maintain a distinct style of dress.
Defining the Cherokee Tear Dress
The Cherokee Tear Dress is not simply a dress; it’s a symbol of cultural pride, resilience, and ingenuity. It is characterized by specific construction and design elements that distinguish it from other styles of dress. While individual variations are encouraged to reflect personal style, certain fundamental aspects remain constant.
Key Elements of Construction and Design:
The Cherokee Tear Dress is built upon a foundation of practicality and adaptability, reflecting the lives of the women who wore it. The dress is often described as a shirt-waist style, featuring a bodice (historically referred to as the "waist") attached to a gathered skirt by an inset waistband. The closure is typically a button-down front, similar to a traditional men’s shirt, further emphasizing its functionality.
Variations Reflecting Personal Style:
While adhering to the basic structural principles, a woman has significant latitude in choosing variations that express her individual aesthetic. These choices extend to fabric, length, sleeve style, and embellishments.
- Fabric: Almost any fabric that can be gathered softly is deemed acceptable. This includes cotton calico, prints (solids and patterns), and a variety of weaves such as broadcloth, crepe, and chiffon. The choice of fabric often depends on the occasion and the wearer’s personal preference.
- Skirt Length: Skirt length is another area of variation. Ankle or floor-length skirts are typically reserved for ceremonial events, while below-the-knee lengths are more common for social gatherings, formal occasions, and daytime wear. Stomp dancers often opt for shorter lengths to facilitate movement.
- Sleeve Length: Sleeve length options include elbow, three-quarter, and wrist length, allowing for comfort and practicality depending on the season and activity.
- Decorative Bands: The decorative bands that adorn the Cherokee Tear Dress offer further opportunities for personal expression. These bands can be plain and solid, feature cut-out and/or appliqued motifs of square and triangle shapes, or be embellished with beaded or embroidered vine-like designs, consistent with the traditional Southeastern Woodland tribes.
- Neck Opening: The neck opening can be finished in several ways: with a stand-up band collar, a round neck without a collar, a ruffle, or a plain-faced square neck opening. Each option offers a different aesthetic and level of formality.
The Significance of the "Tear"
The name "Tear Dress" can be misleading. It’s crucial to understand that the "tear" in the name refers to the act of tearing fabric, not to crying or the Trail of Tears. The word "tear" is pronounced as in "rip and tear."
The origin of the name is somewhat shrouded in mystery, with no definitive account of who first coined the term. However, the name is onomatopoeic in Cherokee, describing how the pieces of the dress were originally cut during construction. Historically, the dress was constructed from simple shapes of squares and rectangles, and each piece was torn across the grain of the fabric rather than cut with scissors. This method was particularly suited to the types of fabric available at the time.
History and Evolution
The Cherokee Tear Dress emerged as a practical and comfortable garment for working-class women. During the era in which the dress developed, women who engaged in manual labor, such as tradespeople, farmers, and crafters, needed clothing that allowed for ease of movement and did not require constant adjustment.
Unlike the form-fitting, elaborately fastened garments worn by privileged women with personal attendants, the Tear Dress was designed for self-sufficiency. The fullness of the gathered bodice and skirt provided freedom of movement, while the one-piece construction eliminated the need to constantly tuck in or adjust a separate waist and skirt. This practicality made it an ideal choice for everyday wear and work activities.
The Tear Dress was typically made at home, either by a family member or a local seamstress. Its construction, while requiring some skill, was within the reach of many women.
The Cherokee Tear Dress and the "Miss Cherokee" Contest
The Cherokee Tear Dress holds a special place in the annual "Miss Cherokee" contest. Since 1969, it has been a requirement that every contestant wear a Tear Dress, showcasing the garment’s enduring cultural significance. Any variation of the Tear Dress is acceptable, as long as it adheres to the fundamental principles of being cut accurately from squares and rectangles and featuring a square arm gusset under the arm.
Miss Suzy Coon holds the distinction of being the first woman to compete and be crowned as Miss Cherokee while wearing a Cherokee Tear Dress. Furthermore, the first official Tear Dress was made for and worn by Virginia Stroud during her reign as "Miss Indian America" in 1969, cementing its status as a symbol of Cherokee identity on a national stage.
Construction and Measurements
Creating a Cherokee Tear Dress requires a medium-to-advanced knowledge of garment construction and sewing skills. A well-fitting dress demands accurate measurements, a thorough understanding of the necessary steps for cutting, sewing, and finishing the dress, and a significant amount of patience.
While commercially printed Tear Dress patterns are available, they often lack complete instructions and are not always self-explanatory for novice dressmakers. This underscores the importance of traditional knowledge and skills in creating an authentic and well-made garment.
Key Measurements:
Every Tear Dress is a unique creation, custom-made to fit the individual wearer. The primary measurements required include:
- Bust: Measured around the fullest part of the chest.
- Waist: Measured around the natural waistline.
- Hips: Measured around the fullest part of the hips.
- Shoulder Width: Measured from shoulder to shoulder across the back.
- Sleeve Length: Measured from the shoulder to the wrist.
- Skirt Length: Measured from the waist to the desired hemline.
- Back Length: Measured from the base of the neck to the waist.
Cutting Techniques: Then and Now
The original method of constructing a Tear Dress involved tearing the fabric across the grain, a technique that was well-suited to the materials available at the time. Cotton goods on the bolt were typically 18 or 24 inches wide, making them ideal for creating the square and rectangular pieces needed for the dress. 100 percent cotton materials are easily torn across the grain from selvage to selvage.
However, modern fabrics, particularly cotton/polyester blends, often require cutting to avoid ragged, puckered edges. The introduction of wider fabrics, typically 42 to 45 inches wide, also necessitated a change in cutting techniques. Today, dressmakers often use a cutting guide to plan how to cut the widths and lengths of each piece, approximating the proportions of the original dress.
The 24-inch fabric that was standard for cotton prints and calicos until the early 1960s was particularly well-suited for making a Tear Dress. For an average person, sleeves could be made 24 inches wide; a skirt could be made of three panels (72 inches), creating a seam opening down the front; the lower back bodice piece and the two front bodice pieces (torn lengthwise in half) could each be one width of fabric; and the 18-inch square yoke could be cut from one width, with the remaining six inches used for sleeve bands, neck bands, or front/placket opening facings.
Conclusion
The Cherokee Tear Dress is more than just a garment; it is a tangible representation of Cherokee history, culture, and ingenuity. From its practical origins as a dress for working women to its current status as a symbol of tribal identity, the Tear Dress has evolved and adapted while retaining its core essence. Its unique construction, the freedom of expression it allows, and its significance in events like the "Miss Cherokee" contest all contribute to its enduring importance within the Cherokee Nation. The Cherokee Tear Dress continues to be a testament to the resilience and creativity of the Cherokee people.