Zakynthos’s Emerald Waters: A Journey to Turtle Island and the Heart of Loggerhead Conservation
Zakynthos, the southernmost of the Ionian Islands, is a destination that conjures images of postcard-perfect beaches, dramatic cliff faces, and a vibrant nightlife. While its iconic Shipwreck Beach (Navagio) often steals the spotlight, the island holds a deeper, more profound allure beneath its shimmering emerald waters: the ancient, majestic loggerhead sea turtle, Caretta caretta. A pilgrimage to Zakynthos is incomplete without embarking on a Turtle Island tour, an experience that intertwines breathtaking natural beauty with a powerful lesson in conservation.
Known locally as "Zante," Zakynthos boasts a landscape of incredible diversity. From the pine-clad mountains in the north to the fertile plains in the south, and from the lively resorts of Laganas and Tsilivi to the serene, untouched coves, the island offers something for every traveler. But it is the southern bay of Laganas, with its shallow, warm waters and extensive sandy beaches, that serves as a vital sanctuary for one of the Mediterranean’s most significant populations of nesting loggerhead turtles. And at the heart of this marine haven lies Marathonisi, affectionately dubbed "Turtle Island."
Marathonisi is an uninhabited islet, easily recognizable by its distinctive shape, which uncannily resembles a giant sea turtle. Its two main beaches are crucial nesting sites: one, a pristine stretch of soft white sand, provides the perfect incubation grounds for turtle eggs, while the other, a pebble beach, features two captivating sea caves that invite exploration. The island is a microcosm of Zakynthos’s natural splendor, offering crystal-clear waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling, framed by lush vegetation and dramatic rock formations.
The journey to Turtle Island typically commences from the bustling port of Laganas, or the more tranquil piers of Agios Sostis and Porto Koukla. A variety of tour operators cater to every preference, from large, family-friendly glass-bottom boats that offer a unique perspective into the underwater world, to smaller, agile speedboats for those seeking a more exhilarating ride, and private charters for an intimate, bespoke experience. Regardless of the vessel, the anticipation is palpable as boats gently navigate the protected waters of Laganas Bay, their engines throttled back to avoid disturbing the marine inhabitants.
The primary objective for many on these tours is a glimpse of the legendary Caretta caretta. Spotting a loggerhead turtle in its natural habitat is an experience that transcends mere sightseeing. It often begins with a collective gasp from the boat as a dark, elliptical shape breaks the surface, followed by the slow, deliberate rise of a magnificent head, taking a breath before gracefully submerging again. "It’s like witnessing a living dinosaur, a creature that has navigated these waters for millions of years," marvels Maria, a veteran boat captain who has guided countless tourists on these expeditions. "Their presence is a reminder of the ancient world that still thrives beneath our modern lives."
These tours are meticulously designed to maximize the chances of a turtle sighting while adhering strictly to conservation guidelines. Tour operators, many of whom are deeply committed to protecting these endangered species, employ experienced spotters who know the turtles’ favorite feeding grounds. Once a turtle is sighted, boats maintain a respectful distance, allowing passengers to observe these gentle giants without causing stress. The thrill of seeing a loggerhead, with its powerful flippers propelling it through the azure depths, is an unforgettable moment, a connection to nature that is both humbling and exhilarating.
Beyond turtle spotting, the tours typically include stops at Marathonisi for swimming and sunbathing. Here, visitors can bask on the soft sands, snorkel in the unbelievably clear waters, or explore the small caves carved into the islet’s rocky coastline. Many tours also extend to the breathtaking Keri Caves, a series of sea caves and archways carved into the dramatic limestone cliffs on the southwestern coast of Zakynthos. The vibrant blue hues of the water inside these caves, created by the sunlight refracting through the limestone, are a photographer’s dream, offering another dimension to the island’s natural wonders.
The loggerhead sea turtle is an extraordinary creature, capable of living for over 60 years and growing to an impressive length of up to 1.1 meters and weighing over 150 kilograms. Zakynthos’s southern bay is the most important nesting ground for Caretta caretta in the entire Mediterranean, hosting approximately 1,300 nests annually. From late May to early October, female turtles emerge from the sea under the cover of darkness to lay their clutches of around 100 eggs in the warm sands of designated nesting beaches like Gerakas, Dafni, Sekania, Kalamaki, and, of course, Marathonisi. After about 50-65 days, tiny hatchlings emerge, embarking on a perilous journey to the sea, guided by the moonlight.
However, the continued survival of these magnificent creatures is far from guaranteed. Loggerhead turtles face numerous threats, primarily from human activities. Plastic pollution, which turtles often mistake for jellyfish, can lead to fatal ingestion. Boat strikes, entanglement in fishing nets, habitat degradation due to coastal development, and light pollution disorienting hatchlings are all significant challenges. The delicate balance between a thriving tourism industry and the imperative to protect this fragile ecosystem is a constant, ongoing challenge for Zakynthos.
This is where the National Marine Park of Zakynthos (NMPZ) plays a crucial role. Established in 1999, the NMPZ is the first national marine park in Greece and is dedicated to the protection of Caretta caretta and other endangered species, including the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). The park implements strict regulations within its designated zones, including speed limits for boats, prohibitions on anchoring in sensitive areas, and restrictions on nighttime access to nesting beaches during the breeding season.
Volunteer organizations, such as ARCHELON (the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece), work tirelessly alongside the NMPZ. During nesting season, volunteers patrol beaches, identify and protect nests, rescue injured turtles, and educate both locals and tourists about responsible practices. "Every single visitor has a role to play in protecting these incredible animals," explains Eleni, an ARCHELON volunteer. "By choosing a responsible tour operator, respecting distances, and never leaving rubbish on beaches, you become part of the solution."
For tourists, making the most of a Turtle Island tour means embracing both the adventure and the responsibility. The best time for turtle spotting is generally from June to August, when nesting activity is at its peak and the hatchlings begin to emerge. It’s advisable to bring sunscreen, a hat, a camera, and snorkeling gear. Crucially, ethical viewing practices are paramount: maintain a distance of at least three meters from turtles, avoid sudden movements or loud noises, never attempt to touch or feed them, and refrain from using flash photography, especially at night. Choosing tour operators who visibly adhere to NMPZ guidelines and promote conservation is also a significant step towards responsible tourism.
A Turtle Island tour in Zakynthos is more than just a boat trip; it is an immersive experience that connects visitors to the ancient heart of the Ionian Sea. It’s the moment of breathless anticipation as a turtle breaks the surface, the awe inspired by the dramatic beauty of the Keri Caves, and the serene joy of swimming in the clear waters of Marathonisi. But beneath the surface of this idyllic adventure lies a powerful narrative of survival and the ongoing human effort to preserve one of nature’s most magnificent creatures. To witness the Caretta caretta in its natural habitat is not just a holiday highlight; it is a poignant reminder of our shared planet and our collective responsibility to protect its wonders for generations to come. Zakynthos offers an invitation not just to relax, but to participate in a legacy of conservation, making every glimpse of a loggerhead turtle a truly priceless memory.
