Threads of Identity: The Enduring Legacy of Navajo Traditional Dress and Regalia
More than mere garments, the traditional dress and regalia of the Diné, or Navajo people, represent a profound tapestry woven from history, identity, spirituality, and resilience. Each thread, each silver adornment, and each vibrant hue tells a story of a people deeply connected to their land, their traditions, and their ancestral wisdom. Far from being static relics of the past, these forms of dress are living, evolving expressions of Diné sovereignty and cultural pride, worn with dignity at ceremonies, social gatherings, and increasingly, in contemporary professional and academic settings.
The evolution of Navajo traditional dress is a testament to the Diné people’s adaptability and ingenuity. Prior to European contact, early Diné attire consisted primarily of woven yucca fiber, deerskin, or bark, fashioned into practical garments suitable for their semi-nomadic lifestyle in the Southwest. The arrival of Spanish colonizers in the 16th century, and later American traders, dramatically altered the available materials and, consequently, the aesthetic of Diné clothing. The introduction of materials like calico and velvet by Spanish traders and later American trading posts significantly influenced the evolution of Navajo attire, providing access to more pliable and colorful fabrics that quickly became staples. Wool, which the Diné were already adept at weaving from their churro sheep, continued to be a crucial material, especially for blankets and shawls that often served as both clothing and shelter.
For Diné women, the traditional attire is both elegant and deeply symbolic. The most recognizable ensemble typically consists of a velvet blouse and a tiered, full-length skirt. The velvet blouse, often long-sleeved, is celebrated for its rich texture and vibrant colors – deep blues, purples, reds, and greens are common, reflecting the natural hues of the Diné landscape. These blouses are frequently adorned with silver buttons, often dimes or quarters, reflecting a practice that began with the scarcity of traditional materials and the value placed on currency. The skirt, usually made of cotton or calico, is characterized by its multiple ruffled tiers, allowing for both modesty and ease of movement. Beneath the skirt, a petticoat provides additional volume and warmth. This combination of velvet and calico speaks to the historical blending of introduced materials with indigenous aesthetic preferences.
Completing the woman’s ensemble are moccasins, typically hard-soled and reaching just above the ankle, often made from deerskin or buckskin. These are both practical for the rugged terrain of Diné Bikéyah (Navajoland) and symbolic of connection to the earth. Hair is traditionally styled into a tsiiyéél, a distinctive bun tied at the back of the head with white string or yarn, symbolizing purity and connection to the sacred mountains. A head scarf or ch’ah, often in a complementary color to the blouse, is worn over the hair, providing protection and adding another layer of grace.
However, no discussion of Diné traditional dress is complete without extensive mention of the exquisite jewelry that adorns both men and women. Navajo silversmithing, a craft learned from the Spanish and later refined, has become synonymous with exquisite turquoise and silver jewelry. These pieces are not merely decorative; they are imbued with profound cultural and spiritual significance. Turquoise, revered for its vibrant blue and green hues, is considered sacred, symbolizing the sky, water, and protection. It is believed to bring good fortune, health, and a strong spirit. Silver, the metal of choice, is seen as a conduit for these protective and prosperous energies.
The iconic squash blossom necklace, while prevalent across the Southwest, holds particular significance for the Diné. Its crescent-shaped naja pendant is an ancient Moorish symbol of protection, believed to have been introduced by the Spanish and adopted by the Navajo, who imbued it with their own meanings, sometimes relating it to the crescent moon or even the uterus, symbolizing fertility and life. The "squash blossom" beads themselves are thought to represent the squash flower, a vital food source. Concho belts, with their intricately stamped silver ovals or "conchos" strung on a leather belt, are another hallmark of Navajo artistry, often adorned with turquoise stones and worn by both genders. Bracelets, rings, earrings, and even hair ties crafted from silver and turquoise complete the ensemble, each piece a miniature work of art and a statement of identity.
For Diné men, traditional attire also combines historical influences with enduring cultural preferences. A velvet shirt, similar in material to the women’s blouses but cut in a masculine style, is often worn, sometimes adorned with silver buttons or conchos. These shirts are typically paired with dark-colored trousers, which historically would have been made of wool or buckskin, but today are often tailored pants or even denim jeans, reflecting modern adaptations. A wide-brimmed felt hat, often decorated with a silver hat band or a feather, is a common accessory, providing protection from the sun and adding a distinguished touch. Concho belts and bolo ties, featuring large, elaborate silver and turquoise settings, are integral parts of a man’s formal dress, signaling status and cultural affiliation. Moccasins, similar to those worn by women, complete the traditional look.
Regalia, distinguished from everyday traditional dress, refers to attire specifically worn for ceremonies, dances, or important cultural events. While the core elements remain, regalia often involves more elaborate adornments, specific ceremonial items, and sometimes face painting or body paint, depending on the specific rite. For instance, during traditional healing ceremonies like the Blessingway (Hózhóójí) or the Enemyway (Dziłkʼijí), specific items of clothing or adornment might be required or blessed for the participant, reflecting the sacred nature of the event.
In the context of intertribal gatherings such as powwows, Diné participants often incorporate elements of their traditional dress into their powwow regalia. While powwow regalia can vary widely between tribes, a Diné dancer might proudly display a substantial concho belt, intricate turquoise jewelry, or specific weaving patterns in their shawl or dance apron, affirming their Diné identity within a broader Indigenous context. The regalia for specific dances within Navajo culture, such as the Yeibichai dances, are highly specialized and sacred, featuring masks, specific body paints, and garments that embody spiritual beings, and are not for public display outside of their ceremonial context.
The significance of Navajo traditional dress extends far beyond aesthetics. It is a powerful symbol of K’é, the foundational concept of kinship, relationship, and connection that defines Diné society. Wearing traditional dress is an affirmation of identity, a connection to ancestors, and a visual representation of Diné resilience in the face of historical adversity. It is also a statement of belonging to a matriarchal society, where women are often seen as the backbone of the family and culture, and their dress reflects this esteemed position.
In recent decades, Navajo traditional dress and regalia have also become a prominent feature in the dialogue surrounding cultural appropriation. The rise of "Navajo-inspired" fashion lines by non-Native designers, often without consultation or compensation, has sparked significant controversy and legal battles. The Navajo Nation has actively fought to protect its cultural patrimony, including the use of its name and designs, through trademarks and legal action. This ongoing struggle underscores the deep value and spiritual significance embedded in every aspect of Diné dress and art, highlighting the difference between respectful appreciation and exploitative appropriation.
Despite these challenges, the tradition of Diné dress continues to thrive. Young Diné designers are reinterpreting traditional elements into contemporary fashion, bridging the gap between ancestral designs and modern aesthetics. Graduations, professional conferences, and even everyday life increasingly see Diné people proudly wearing their traditional attire, asserting their cultural identity in diverse spaces. This living tradition ensures that the stories woven into the velvet, the glint of silver, and the blue of turquoise continue to speak volumes, not just about the past, but about the vibrant, enduring future of the Diné people.
In an ever-changing world, Navajo traditional dress and regalia stand as powerful testaments to enduring cultural strength, a vibrant legacy passed down through generations, each thread a story, each silver gleam a whisper of resilience, and each garment a profound declaration of Diné identity.
