The allure of "Indian Jewelry" lies not only in its aesthetic beauty but also in its cultural significance, representing a rich heritage passed down through generations. For those seeking to acquire a piece of this art form, particularly as a meaningful gift, ensuring its authenticity and origin is paramount. This article serves as a comprehensive guide to understanding the nuances of Native American jewelry, helping you discern genuine pieces from imitations and supporting the talented artisans who create them.
Understanding the Craft: A Regional Tapestry
It’s crucial to recognize that "Indian Jewelry" is not a monolithic entity. Different tribes across the United States have distinct artistic traditions and preferred materials. While some tribes are renowned for their silversmithing and turquoise work, others excel in beadwork, quillwork, or shell carving.
For example, in the case of the Lakota Sioux, while individual artisans may work with silver, their cultural legacy is more prominently associated with beadwork and quillwork. Turquoise jewelry, in its most popular forms, typically originates in the American Southwest, home to tribes like the Navajo, Zuni, Hopi, and Santo Domingo Pueblo.
A Glimpse into Southwestern Traditions:
-
Navajo Jewelry: The Navajo people were pioneers in commercial silversmithing in the Southwest. Their jewelry is characterized by its bold designs, large freeform natural stones, and elaborate silverwork. They often incorporate turquoise, coral, and other semi-precious gemstones. Silverwork, while not traditional initially, gained popularity in the early reservation era as a means of economic support through the tourist trade. Navajo jewelry is often the most copied by non-native american jewelry producers. Atsidi Sani is credited as the first Navajo silversmith, starting in 1868.
-
Hopi Jewelry: Hopi artisans are known for their distinctive "overlay" technique. This involves layering a sheet of silver with cut-out designs over a plain sheet of identical shape. The recessed areas are often left unpolished or blackened to create a contrasting effect.
-
Zuni Jewelry: The Zuni tribe is celebrated for its intricate stone and shell inlay work. This meticulous process involves carefully cutting and setting individual pieces of shell and stone into silver jewelry, forming precise patterns. Zuni artisans also excel in needlepoint and petit point gem work, which features numerous uniformly cut stones set in traditional patterns on top of the silver. Additionally, the Zuni are known for their animal and bird carvings called "fetishes," often incorporated into necklaces or displayed as individual sculptures.
-
Santo Domingo Pueblo Jewelry: Located in New Mexico, Santo Domingo Pueblo is renowned for producing "heishi," tiny handmade beads often strung into necklaces. They also create shell inlay jewelry, reminiscent of ancestral Pueblo designs. Santo Domingo artists are known for necklaces interspersed with turquoise nuggets, coral, or bird fetishes.
-
Plains Indian Jewelry: Unlike the Southwestern tribes, Plains Indians traditionally favored materials like buffalo horn, bone hairpipe beads, wampum, conch shell, and abalone. Quillwork and intricate beadwork patterns using tiny seed beads are also hallmarks of Plains Indian artistry. Today, it’s important to be aware that many bone chokers and beadwork items are imported from Asia.
Navigating the Market: Authenticity and Identification
The market for "Indian Jewelry" is unfortunately rife with imitations, making it essential to be a discerning buyer. Here’s a breakdown of factors to consider:
-
Craftsmanship: Examine the jewelry closely. Is it well-crafted? Are the lines clean, the images clear, and the stones securely set? Stamped designs on the inside of the jewelry might indicate mechanical stamping.
-
Hallmarks: Many Native American artists use a "hallmark" – a stamped signature or symbol – to identify their work. However, hallmarks can be forged, so they should not be the sole basis for determining authenticity.
-
Materials:
-
Silver: Check for a "Sterling" or ".925" stamp, indicating that the piece is made of sterling silver (92.5% silver, 7.5% copper). "German silver," "Mexican silver," "Alpaca Silver," "Nickel Silver," and "Tibetan silver" contain little to no real silver. Be wary of "Tibetan silver," as it may contain high levels of lead.
-
Turquoise: Be aware of terms like "block," "chip," or "stabilized." "Chip inlay" uses leftover turquoise chips mixed with resin. "Block turquoise" is made from turquoise dust and plastic resin. "Stabilized" turquoise has been treated with resin to enhance its durability, a common practice. "White Buffalo" turquoise is often howlite, a cheap white stone often dyed blue to imitate turquoise.
-
-
Price: Genuine handmade Native American jewelry is often expensive due to the labor-intensive process and the value of the materials. If the price seems too good to be true, it likely is. Imported or mass-produced jewelry typically costs significantly less.
Legal Protections and Ethical Considerations:
The Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 makes it illegal to sell items as "Indian jewelry" or "Indian made" if they are not created by a member of a state or federally recognized tribe or certified as an Indian artisan. Asking the seller for a Certificate of Authenticity can provide assurance.
Finding Reputable Sources:
-
Established Dealers: Purchase from established dealers who offer a guarantee of authenticity and are knowledgeable about Native American art.
-
The Indian Arts and Crafts Association (IACA): The IACA promotes authentic Native American arts and provides a Buyer’s Guide to help locate reputable artists and dealers.
-
Tribal Affiliation: If buying online, look for websites or artists that clearly identify their tribal affiliation.
The Importance of Supporting Native American Artists:
Purchasing authentic Native American jewelry is not just about acquiring a beautiful object; it’s about supporting the cultural heritage and economic well-being of Native American communities. By being informed and discerning, you can ensure that your purchase contributes to the preservation of these unique artistic traditions. Understanding How do I know if ‘Indian Jewelry’ is authentic and made by a real indian? is a form of respect. This is why it is so important to ensure that the item you are buying is really How do I know if ‘Indian Jewelry’ is authentic and made by a real indian?. This information is crucial to answer the question: How do I know if ‘Indian Jewelry’ is authentic and made by a real indian?