Turquoise, a gemstone revered for its captivating blue-green hues, has long been intertwined with the artistry and spirituality of Native American cultures. The exhibition, "Glittering World: Navajo Jewelry of the Yazzie Family," offered a breathtaking glimpse into this legacy, showcasing the remarkable talents of the Yazzie family and their dedication to creating exquisite jewelry that embodies the Navajo concept of hózhó, an idealized state of beauty, balance, and harmony. The exhibition, which ran until early 2016, featured around 330 pieces made by 15 members of the Yazzie family, with a primary focus on the works of brothers Lee and Raymond Yazzie.
The story of Lee Yazzie is one of unexpected artistic destiny. Initially aspiring to be an accountant, a path he believed would allow him to contribute to the financial stability of the Navajo Nation in Window Rock, Arizona, life took a different turn. Forced to abandon his studies due to unforeseen circumstances, Yazzie turned to the traditional craft of silversmithing, a skill passed down through generations of his family. It was through this medium that he discovered his true calling, transforming metal and stone into objects of profound beauty and cultural significance.
Lee Yazzie quickly established himself as a master craftsman, renowned for his ability to translate traditional Navajo motifs into refined silver pieces. His designs often incorporate the quadrant division of space, a symbolic representation of the interconnectedness of the world. What truly sets his work apart is his discerning eye for high-quality American turquoise. Each stone is carefully selected for its unique color, matrix, and spiritual properties, becoming an integral part of the overall design. These jewels are not merely adornments; they are embodiments of hózhó, reflecting the Navajo worldview of interconnectedness and harmony with nature. The Beauty and Balance in Turquoise are evident in his dedication.
Raymond Yazzie, Lee’s younger brother, shares the same deep respect for hózhó but approaches his craft with a distinct artistic sensibility. According to Lois Sherr Dubin, the curator of the "Glittering World" exhibition, Raymond "works from color," showcasing his exceptional talent as a lapidary artist. He is a master of inlay, a meticulous technique that involves cutting gemstones to precisely fit within metal channels, creating intricate mosaics of color and texture. His Beauty and Balance in Turquoise creations are like miniature paintings, each stone carefully chosen for its specific hue and character.
Raymond Yazzie’s artistry is exemplified in pieces like the "Blessings" cuff, created in 2003. This remarkable piece features rare Water Web Kingman turquoise inlaid with an astonishing 485 gems, including coral, opal, and lapis lazuli. The intricate design depicts an abstract representation of corn, stars, feather patterns, and kachinas, the spirit beings of the Hopi tradition. This cuff is not merely a piece of jewelry; it is a visual narrative, an homage to the paintings of Hopi artist Dan Namingha, and a testament to Raymond Yazzie’s mastery of color, form, and symbolism.
Dubin emphasizes the depth and complexity of the Yazzie’s work, stating, "It’s a kind of visual communication system that also happens to be quite beautiful, and not just at a surface level. There are so many layers and depths of information." Their jewelry transcends mere ornamentation, serving as a powerful form of cultural expression, preserving and transmitting ancestral knowledge and beliefs. The Beauty and Balance in Turquoise is the visual form of communication.
Turquoise Becoming Art
The Yazzie family’s success is part of a broader narrative of Native American jewelers gaining recognition on the world stage. Following World War II, a group of pioneering craftsmen, including Kenneth Begay, considered the father of modern Navajo jewelry, and Hopi jewelers Preston Monongye and Charles Loloma, revolutionized Native American design. They skillfully blended tradition with modernity, incorporating vibrant colors and exotic stones into their creations. Their innovative designs and meticulous craftsmanship elevated Native American jewelry from simple trinkets to recognized works of art.
Dubin notes that these artists "brought color and exotic stones and got respectful prices paid for their work. They raised Native American jewelry from trinkets to art." Their influence continues to resonate with contemporary jewelers, inspiring new generations to explore the rich artistic traditions of Native American cultures.
Pamela Love, a New York-based jewelry designer, acknowledges the profound impact of Charles Loloma on her early work. While her designs may not directly mirror Loloma’s, she draws inspiration from his techniques and use of stones, incorporating elements of Native American aesthetics into her own unique style.
Turquoise, in particular, holds a special allure for designers and collectors alike. Its wide range of colors and forms, shaped by geological processes and cultural significance, make each stone unique. The stone is popularized by Turkish traders, embraced by Native Americans, and now mined extensively by the Chinese, turquoise varies so widely in color and form that many American Indians say no two stones are alike.
Love recounts her personal connection to the Southwest, recalling a transformative road trip through Arizona and New Mexico that ignited her passion for the region’s landscapes and cultures. Since then, she has incorporated Southwestern iconography, such as feathers, medicine wheels, snakes, and arrowheads, into her designs. Her fall collection, "Sueño" (Dream), is inspired by Frida Kahlo and Johnny Cash, blending elements of Mexican and American Western aesthetics with her signature edgy style.
Love expresses her admiration for Native American culture, stating, "What’s special about Native American culture is that it does a beautiful job of making the connection to the environment and respect for how we got here, in a really poetic way." This connection to nature and reverence for the past are central themes in her work.
Turquoise In Others’ Work
Melissa Joy Manning, a designer based in Berkeley, California, shares a similar fascination with tribal cultures and a deep appreciation for American turquoise. She regularly attends gem shows in Tucson, Arizona, to source unique and exceptional stones. "I’m fascinated by the Native American idea that no two stones are alike," she says, emphasizing the individual character and inherent beauty of each turquoise gem.
David Yurman, a renowned New York designer, has also embraced Native American artistry, outsourcing a portion of his production to a workshop in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Local artisans create the intricate inlay work that distinguishes his brand’s "Frontier" collection, which features turquoise and silver belt buckles, woven bracelets, and rings. This collaboration highlights the growing appreciation for Native American craftsmanship and the desire to incorporate authentic elements into contemporary designs.
In Los Angeles, designers Jacquie Aiche and Irene Neuwirth have both expressed their admiration for Native American style. Aiche’s limited collection of leather bolo ties, adorned with crescent-shaped pendants reminiscent of the traditional Navajo naja symbol, pays homage to Native American traditions. Neuwirth’s long strand of rainbow-colored gemstones evokes the silhouette of a luxurious naja, or squash blossom necklace.
While contemporary designers draw inspiration from Native American traditions, Lee and Raymond Yazzie continue to create one-of-a-kind jewels that are highly sought after by collectors worldwide. Due to the painstaking nature of their work and the overwhelming demand, serious buyers may have to wait up to three years for a Yazzie original.
Lloyd Van Horn, a Houston-based collector who loaned a Raymond Yazzie bolo tie to the "Glittering World" exhibition, emphasizes the unique value of these pieces. "This is not an industrial production; this is one person’s art," he explains. "Every one of those pieces is special to them, and they should be special to those of us lucky enough to own one." The Beauty and Balance in Turquoise is a visual form of communication. The Yazzie family’s dedication to their craft, their deep respect for their cultural heritage, and their commitment to creating objects of enduring beauty have solidified their place as masters of Navajo jewelry. Their work serves as a powerful reminder of the rich artistic traditions of Native American cultures and the enduring power of hózhó.