Nestled in the southeastern reaches of Alaska, a unique community thrives, steeped in history and cultural resilience. Metlakatla, Alaska, is not just another town; it’s the heart of the Annette Islands Reserve, the sole federally recognized Indian reservation within the vast expanse of the state. This distinction sets it apart from other Alaska Native lands, which are primarily managed by Regional or Village Native American Corporations or held as individual allotments. The story of Metlakatla and the Annette Islands Reserve is one of migration, faith, and the enduring spirit of the Tsimshian people.
A Journey from Old to New Metlakatla
The roots of Metlakatla extend across the international border to British Columbia, Canada. Originally, the area known as Metlakatla, B.C. (now often referred to as Old Metlakatla), served as the central winter village for the "Nine Tribes" of the lower Skeena River. These tribes, since 1834, had largely been based in Lax Kw’alaams, B.C., a significant Tsimshian community.
A pivotal figure in the history of Metlakatla is William Duncan, an Anglican lay minister. In 1862, Duncan established a utopian Christian community in Old Metlakatla. This community drew its members primarily from Lax Kw’alaams, with approximately 350 Tsimshians joining, but also welcomed individuals from other Tsimshian tribes. Duncan’s vision was to create a society grounded in Christian principles and self-sufficiency.
An event that solidified Duncan’s influence occurred shortly after the establishment of the community. A devastating smallpox epidemic swept through Lax Kw’alaams, causing widespread death and suffering. However, Old Metlakatla remained relatively unscathed. Duncan interpreted this as a sign of divine favor, bolstering his leadership and attracting more followers.
The Exodus to Annette Island
Despite the initial success, tensions and disagreements arose within the community regarding religious practices and governance. In 1887, a significant turning point occurred. Under Duncan’s leadership, a group of 826 Tsimshian people made the momentous decision to leave their homes in British Columbia. They embarked on a journey in ocean-going canoes, seeking a new home where they could freely practice their faith and maintain their community’s autonomy.
Their voyage led them first to Fort Simpson and eventually to the shores of Annette Island, located within the waters of the United States. This marked the beginning of a new chapter for the Tsimshian people. Recognizing the unique circumstances and the community’s desire for self-governance, the U.S. Congress formally established the Annette Islands Reserve as a federal Indian reservation in 1891. This act granted the community a degree of sovereignty and control over their land and resources.
The Landscape and Climate of Annette Island
Annette Island, the heart of the Annette Islands Reserve, presents a landscape typical of southeastern Alaska. The island is characterized by its lush rainforests, rugged coastline, and abundant wildlife. The reserve itself encompasses 130 acres of land, supplemented by 3,000 feet of the surrounding coastal waters. This marine boundary is crucial for the community’s fishing-based economy.
The island enjoys a relatively mild maritime climate, especially in comparison to other parts of Alaska. Winter temperatures rarely dip below freezing, while summer temperatures often reach the 70s. Precipitation is abundant, with an average of 109 inches falling annually, primarily in the form of rain. Snowfall is infrequent, and when it does occur, the snow seldom remains on the ground for more than a week or two. This temperate climate contributes to the island’s rich biodiversity and supports a variety of plant and animal life.
Metlakatla: A Thriving Community
The primary community on Annette Island is Metlakatla, often referred to as New Metlakatla to distinguish it from its predecessor in British Columbia. Situated approximately 15 miles south of Ketchikan, Alaska, and 650 miles north of Seattle, Washington, Metlakatla is a vibrant hub of activity. The town boasts a population of around 1,400 residents.
While the majority of Metlakatla’s population is Tsimshian, the community is also home to individuals from other Alaska Native groups, including Tlingit, Haida, Aleut, and Yupik. This diverse mix of cultures adds to the richness and complexity of Metlakatla’s social fabric. The Metlakatla Indian Community’s charter includes a provision that allows members of other tribes to join the community, fostering inclusivity and collaboration.
Metlakatla provides a range of essential services to its residents. These include power, sewer, trash pickup, water, telephone, internet, and television. The community also has a medical center, schools, a police department, and a volunteer fire department, ensuring the well-being and safety of its citizens.
Transportation to and from Metlakatla is primarily facilitated by ferry service to Ketchikan, which operates five days a week and includes car transport. The ferry journey currently takes about an hour and a half. However, plans are underway to construct a new ferry site and pave the existing road, which would significantly reduce travel time to Ketchikan to approximately 15 minutes. The island also has two small boat harbors, a barge dock, and a float plane dock, with regular flights connecting Metlakatla to Ketchikan.
Economy and Traditional Culture
The economy of Metlakatla is largely based on fishing and related industries. Salmon, herring, cod, and halibut are among the primary species harvested. The community also operates a salmon hatchery, a fish packing plant, and a water bottling plant. Retail stores and tourism also contribute to the local economy. The Annette Island Packing Company, a tribally owned enterprise with a history spanning over 110 years, plays a significant role in the community’s economic well-being.
Despite the influences of modernization and external cultures, the Tsimshian people of Metlakatla have maintained a strong connection to their traditional culture. In ancient Tsimshian society, individual tribes were led by their own chiefs and governing councils. Within these tribes, a deeper sense of belonging was fostered through the four major clans: the Eagle (Lachsgeek), the Raven (Gunhada), the Wolf (Lachgeebuu), and the Killer Whale (Gisbuutwada). These clans continue to play a significant role in Tsimshian social structure and identity.
Today, Metlakatla is officially incorporated as the "Metlakatla Indian Community." The community is governed by a 12-member tribal council, along with a mayor, secretary, and treasurer. These elected officials are responsible for the welfare of Metlakatla’s people and the management of the community’s resources.
The traditional language of the Metlakatla people is Sm’algyax, which belongs to the Tsimshianic language family. Various dialects of Sm’algyax are spoken throughout the north coast of British Columbia and in Metlakatla. However, due to the impacts of residential schools and the community’s proximity to Prince Rupert, the number of fluent Sm’algyax speakers has declined. Efforts are underway to revitalize the language and preserve this important aspect of Tsimshian culture.
Historians have extensively documented the culture, traditions, and stories of the Coast Tsimshian, including the communities of Metlakatla and Lax Kw’alaams, in their shared traditional territories. Metlakatla members continue to exercise their inherent rights and freedoms to harvest traditional foods, practice traditional ceremonies, and honor their history and lineage.
The Annette Islands Reserve stands as a testament to the resilience and adaptability of the Tsimshian people. Their journey from Old Metlakatla to New Metlakatla is a story of faith, determination, and the pursuit of self-governance. As the only Indian reservation in Alaska, the Annette Islands Reserve holds a unique place in the state’s history and continues to be a vibrant center of Tsimshian culture and community.