The Indian Trade Blanket, a seemingly simple textile, represents a complex tapestry of cultural exchange, economic necessity, and artistic adaptation within the history of Native American life, particularly in the American Southwest. Whether meticulously handwoven by skilled Native American artisans or rapidly produced by American woolen mills using the innovative Jacquard loom, the blanket holds a position of enduring significance, deeply interwoven with the traditions of trade and the very fabric of Native American existence.
The blanket’s importance extends far beyond mere utility. It is a tangible representation of life itself, intimately connected to rituals that mark the passage from birth to death. Throughout Native American communities, blankets are bestowed as gifts to celebrate births, solidify marriages, and commemorate christenings. They serve as a form of currency, used to settle debts, express gratitude, and signify social standing within the tribe. Practical in its function, the blanket provides temporary shelter, acting as a curtain, awning, or simply offering warmth against the elements. Beyond these practical uses, it is also a form of adornment, adding beauty and distinction to daily life. From cradling infants to wrapping the deceased for burial, the blanket accompanies individuals throughout their entire lives.
Historically, blankets crafted by Native Americans were made from a diverse range of materials, including woven plant fibers, carefully prepared animal hides, and luxurious furs. As weaving techniques developed, handwoven textiles made from wool or cotton became more common. The practice of trading blankets predates the arrival of European settlers, forming an integral part of intertribal commerce. This long-standing tradition facilitated the natural transition to accepting commercially produced blankets from European traders in exchange for valuable beaver pelts.
The westward expansion of European settlers and the devastating decimation of buffalo herds brought profound changes to Native American life. The buffalo, a cornerstone of Plains Indian culture, provided not only sustenance but also hides used for clothing, shelter, and, of course, blankets. As the buffalo population dwindled, Plains Indians found themselves increasingly reliant on traders for essential goods, including blankets. This dependence underscored the vital role of trade blankets in adapting to a drastically altered environment.
The earliest Indian Trade Blankets were characterized by their simplicity. Solid colors, often punctuated by contrasting stripes, defined their aesthetic. The iconic Hudson Bay Company blanket, manufactured in England, became a highly sought-after trade item, exchanged by European trappers with the Blackfeet and Northern Plains Indians. The quality and warmth of these wool blankets made them an essential commodity for both trappers and explorers, paving the way for American companies to enter the market.
Woolen mills began emerging across the United States, driven by the demand for trade blankets. Racine Woolen Mills in Wisconsin, Buell in Missouri, Capps in Illinois, and the Oregon City Mill in Oregon all contributed to the growing production of these essential textiles. Each mill developed its own distinctive characteristics, subtly differentiating their blankets through variations in design and quality.
A pivotal moment in the history of Indian Trade Blankets arrived in 1896 with the founding of Pendleton Woolen Mills in Pendleton, Oregon. Uniquely, Pendleton was established with the express purpose of producing trade blankets for Native American communities. While designs across different mills shared similarities, distinct regional preferences emerged.
Oregon City blankets, for instance, were known for their intricate detailing, while Capps blankets favored simpler designs that resonated with the aesthetic sensibilities of the Plains Indians. The early Pendleton blankets featured bold geometric patterns, including stripes, blocks, rectangles, and crosses. The introduction of the Jacquard loom in 1901 revolutionized the design possibilities, enabling mills to create more complex and visually striking zigzag patterns. This technological advancement expanded the creative horizons of blanket design, catering to the evolving tastes of Native American consumers.
By the late 19th century, the forced settlement of Native Americans on reservations transformed the landscape of trade. Trading posts became central hubs for acquiring essential supplies, including food, jewelry, clothing, and, of course, blankets. These trading posts provided English and American woolen mills with a readily accessible market for their blankets. Native Americans, appreciating the quality and evolving designs, became the mills’ most valued customers.
Recognizing the importance of understanding their target market, many mills dispatched designers to live among various tribes and pueblos across the United States and Canada. These designers immersed themselves in Native American cultures, studying traditional designs, symbolic colors, and the specific preferences of each community. This cultural sensitivity ensured that the blankets produced would resonate with the intended audience.
Pendleton Woolen Mills quickly distinguished itself through the production of high-quality blankets that gained widespread popularity among Native American tribes. By the end of World War II, Pendleton stood alone as the only American woolen mill still dedicated to producing Indian Trade Blankets.
The legacy of Pendleton blankets extended beyond Native American communities. Throughout America, the name "Pendleton" became synonymous with quality and distinctive design. Pendleton jackets were prized possessions, and Pendleton lap robes provided warmth in drafty automobiles. "Indian-style" Pendleton blankets adorned homes across the country, draped over couches or folded at the foot of beds.
Ironically, despite their popularity and widespread association with Native American culture, these blankets were often neither designed nor made by Native American craftsmen. The term "Pendleton" became a generic descriptor for any blanket with distinctive patterns, regardless of the manufacturer.
In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in vintage trade blankets. Pre-World War II blankets, prized by collectors for their lightness, warmth, affordability, and widespread use, are particularly sought after. Their very utility, however, means that few have survived in pristine condition, adding to their rarity and value.
This renewed interest in trade blankets has spurred the creation of a new market. Contemporary designers are incorporating old and new blankets into a variety of products, from coats and couches to teddy bears. Furthermore, Pendleton continues to innovate, introducing exciting new designs. Notably, Santa Fe artist Ramona Sakiestewa, a Native American artist, became the first to design a series of blankets for Pendleton, representing a significant step in acknowledging and celebrating Native American artistic contributions.
The history of Indian Trade Blankets is rich with irony. Native Americans served as both the inspiration for the designs and the primary consumers of these commercially produced textiles. Yet, long before the arrival of Europeans and the establishment of trading posts, blankets held a central place in Native American life, providing warmth, shelter, and cultural significance.
As Bob Kapoun, a noted expert in the field, eloquently states, "Blankets have become a statement of American Indianness." This understanding resonates deeply within the poignant words of Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce, delivered in his surrender speech in 1877:
"It is cold and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them, have run away to the hills and have no blankets, no food. No one knows where they are—perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead. Hear me, my chiefs. I am tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever."
These words underscore the profound importance of blankets, not only as material objects but as symbols of survival, cultural identity, and the enduring spirit of Native American people. The Indian Trade Blanket story is thus one of both cultural appropriation and enduring cultural significance.