The Crow Fair, Pow Wow and All Indian Rodeo, a vibrant and deeply cultural event, unfolds annually during the third weekend of August near Crow Agency, Montana. This remarkable gathering, a testament to the enduring traditions of the Apsáalooke (Crow) Nation, welcomes visitors from across the globe, swelling the population of the usually quiet area to upwards of 50,000 people. The sheer scale of the event is breathtaking, transforming the landscape into a sprawling encampment, a "Tipi Capital of the World," dotted with over a thousand traditional tipis alongside countless modern tents, campers, and recreational vehicles. The Crow Fair, Pow Wow and All Indian Rodeo is a sensory experience unlike any other.
A Living Tapestry of Tradition
The allure of the Crow Fair, Pow Wow and All Indian Rodeo lies in its authenticity and its deep connection to the history and heritage of the Crow people. For many families, the annual pilgrimage to Crow Agency is a multi-generational tradition, with some clans setting up their lodges in the very same locations their ancestors did. While some sites are claimed by long-standing custom, other spaces are available on a first-come, first-served basis, adding to the dynamic atmosphere of the gathering.
The anticipation builds throughout the week leading up to the official start of the Pow Wow. Visitors begin to arrive as early as Wednesday or Thursday, eager to secure their campsites and soak in the pre-Pow Wow atmosphere. While the vibrant Pow Wow dancing doesn’t commence until Friday, the days leading up to it are rich with significance. Various traditional ceremonies are held on Wednesday and Thursday, offering a glimpse into the spiritual and cultural heart of the Crow Nation. Furthermore, the tribal elections, a crucial aspect of the Crow government, are held on the Monday following the Pow Wow, highlighting the event’s role in both cultural celebration and civic duty.
A Week of Spectacle and Celebration
The Crow Fair, Pow Wow and All Indian Rodeo is a whirlwind of activity, offering a diverse range of events that captivate and entertain attendees of all ages. Each day is punctuated by a vibrant parade, a dazzling display of horsemanship, traditional attire, and community pride. Horsemen and women, adorned in elaborate regalia, lead the procession, followed by dancers in their colorful outfits, children on decorated bicycles, and visiting dignitaries. The parade winds its way through the entire camp and Pow Wow grounds, creating a sense of unity and shared celebration.
Adding to the excitement are the athletic competitions, including a foot race that tests the speed and endurance of participants, and the thrilling All Indian Rodeo, showcasing the skills and bravery of Native American cowboys and cowgirls. Horse racing, a deeply ingrained tradition in many Native American cultures, adds another layer of adrenaline-pumping action to the festivities.
Billings: A Gateway to Montana Adventures
While the Crow Fair is the primary draw for many visitors, the nearby city of Billings, Montana, serves as a convenient base of operations and a gateway to exploring the wonders of the region. Despite being the largest city in Montana, with a population approaching 100,000, Billings retains the charm of a small country town, offering a welcoming atmosphere and a range of amenities.
During major events like the Crow Fair, securing accommodation in Billings requires advance planning. Motel rooms are often booked months, even a year, in advance, as many visitors choose to make Billings their home base for day trips to the surrounding attractions. The city offers a diverse culinary scene, ranging from casual fast-food options to regional delicacies and gourmet fine dining experiences. Accommodation options are equally varied, with major motel chains, quaint bed and breakfast hostels, private RV campgrounds, and state and national park campgrounds all within easy reach.
Billings also offers cultural attractions, including the Alberta Blair Theatre for the Performing Arts, The Billings Symphony Orchestra and Chorale, Yellowstone Art Museum, Western Heritage Center, Zoo Montana, and the MetraPark and Yellowstone Exhibition Center.
Historical Echoes at Little Bighorn
Beyond the vibrant festivities of the Crow Fair, the region surrounding Billings is steeped in history, most notably the story of the Battle of the Little Bighorn. Just a short drive from Billings lies the Little Bighorn National Monument and Cemetery, a somber and poignant reminder of the clash between the U.S. Army and the Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho warriors.
In the nearby town of Hardin, a dramatic reenactment of the battle is held annually during the fourth weekend of June, offering a unique perspective on this pivotal event in American history. The reenactment, sponsored by the area Chamber of Commerce, is based on a script written by Joe Medicine Crow, the official historian for the Crow tribe. This presentation provides a nuanced understanding of the battle from the Native American perspective, starting with the arrival of Lewis and Clark and culminating in the famous confrontation where Custer met his demise.
The reenactment is a popular tourist attraction, capturing the drama and intensity of the battle while remaining historically accurate. Food and craft booths are available on the reenactment grounds, adding to the immersive experience. In addition to the main reenactment, another presentation is put on by the Real Birds, descendants of individuals who fought in the battle, which is held on the actual battleground.
Experiencing the Crow Fair
Attending the Crow Fair is an immersive cultural experience that leaves a lasting impression. Each morning, a Camp Crier, a respected figure in the Crow community, rides through the camps, waking the campers with his calls in the Crow language, a melodic and evocative sound that sets the tone for the day.
Following the parade, the Pow Wow grounds come alive with activity. Giveaways and other traditional ceremonies may take place in the dance arena, offering visitors a glimpse into the cultural protocols and customs of the Crow Nation. The vendor booths, filled with Native American crafts, attract a steady stream of visitors eager to purchase unique and handcrafted souvenirs.
Food is an integral part of the Crow Fair experience. Food stands abound, offering a diverse range of culinary delights, from classic American fare like hamburgers and hot dogs to Chinese food and traditional Indian dishes. Indian frybread tacos, a delicious combination of savory fillings and fluffy fried bread, are a perennial favorite among attendees.
The heart of the Crow Fair is the Pow Wow dancing, a mesmerizing display of rhythm, movement, and cultural expression. The first Grand Entry, a spectacular procession of dancers from all categories, marks the official start of the day’s ceremonies at 1:00 p.m. A second Grand Entry takes place in the evening around 7:00 p.m., following a dinner break. The dancing continues non-stop until the early hours of the morning, sometimes until 3:00 or 4:00 a.m., showcasing the dedication and passion of the dancers. The sheer number of dancers participating in the Crow Fair is so great that the Grand Entry often has to be repeated to accommodate everyone in the arena.
Rodeo Action and Gaming Excitement
While the Pow Wow dancing takes center stage, the Crow Fair also features a three-day All Indian Rodeo, held in the town of Crow Agency. This thrilling event showcases the skills and athleticism of Native American cowboys and cowgirls, adding another dimension to the Crow Fair experience.
In addition to the rodeo and Pow Wow, traditional Indian gambling games, such as Hand Games Tournaments (also known as Stick Games), offer another form of entertainment. Blackjack and other card games are also popular pastimes during the Crow Fair.
Montana’s Weather and Landscapes
When planning a trip to the Crow Fair, it’s essential to be prepared for Montana’s variable weather. During July and August, daytime temperatures typically range from the 80s to the 90s Fahrenheit, while nighttime temperatures can drop to the 50s or 60s. A local saying captures the unpredictable nature of Montana’s weather: "The wind doesn’t always blow like this; sometimes it comes from the other direction."
Despite the potential for unpredictable weather, July and August are generally considered the best months to visit Montana. The state is nicknamed "Big Sky Country" for good reason, offering breathtaking vistas of vast horizons, dramatic cloud formations, and majestic snow-capped mountain peaks.
The Crow Fair, Pow Wow and All Indian Rodeo is more than just an event; it’s a celebration of culture, community, and heritage. It offers a unique opportunity to witness the vibrancy and resilience of the Crow Nation and to experience the beauty and wonder of Montana.